Prevent Frozen Pipes: Best Heat Tape & Faucet Covers (2026 Guide)
- Nest Alpha

- 5 days ago
- 4 min read
Imagine waking up at 3:00 AM to the sound of a waterfall in your living room. The temperature dropped to 15°F overnight, a pipe in the garage burst, and now gallons of water are destroying your drywall, flooring, and furniture.
According to the insurance industry, the average claim for a burst pipe is over $10,000.
The tragedy is that this disaster is almost 100% preventable. You don't need a plumber, and you don't need a renovation. You just need about $30 worth of supplies from the hardware store.
Knowing how to prevent frozen pipes is the most important winter skill a homeowner can have. In this guide, we review the best tools—from Frost King faucet covers to EasyHeat cables—to winterize your home and protect your wallet.
Cheat Sheet: The 3 Layers of Pipe Protection
Which solution does your home need?
Product | Faucet Covers | Heat Tape / Cables | Pipe Insulation (Foam) |
Best For... | Outdoor Spigots | Crawlspaces / Garages | Basements / Utility Rooms |
Type | Hard Styrofoam Shell | Electric Heating Element | Passive Foam Tube |
Cost | $7 | $48 | $ 4 |
Installation | 10 Seconds | 10 Minutes | 5 Minutes |
Worried about leaks inside the walls? Pair these physical barriers with a digital Smart Water Leak Detector for total peace of mind.

Step 1: Outdoor Protection (Best Faucet Covers)
The most common entry point for cold air is your outdoor garden hose spigot (sillcock). If water freezes here, the pressure travels backward into your house and bursts the pipe inside the wall.
The Solution: The Frost King Styrofoam Faucet Cover.
Why It Wins: Unlike "sock" style covers which get wet and freeze, the Frost King uses a hard styrofoam shell with a plastic gasket. It creates a dead-air pocket around the spigot, using the warmth from the house brick to keep the valve above freezing.
Installation: Loop the rubber band around the faucet handle, slide the cover on, and pull the zip-lock tight.
The Cost: Less than a latte.
Step 2: "Active" Heating (Best Heat Tape)
For pipes in unheated areas—like a crawlspace, attic, or uninsulated garage—foam insulation isn't enough. Insulation only slows heat loss; it doesn't create heat. Eventually, the pipe will freeze.
You need "Active" heat.
The Solution: EasyHeat AHB Automatic Heat Cable.
How It Works: This is an electric cable that you tape along the length of your water pipe. It has a built-in thermostat.
The Intelligence: It detects the pipe's temperature. If the pipe drops below 38°F, the cable turns on and warms the pipe. When it warms up, the cable turns off. It uses very little electricity but guarantees flow.
The NestAlpha Take: This is mandatory for mobile homes or houses with crawlspaces in freezing zones.
Step 3: "Passive" Insulation (Foam Tubes)
For pipes in semi-conditioned spaces (like a basement or utility room), you just need a winter coat.
The Solution: Self-Sealing Foam Pipe Insulation.
Why It Wins: These black foam tubes come pre-slit with adhesive strips. You just open them, snap them over the copper/PEX pipe, and peel the sticker to seal it.
The Benefit: Not only does it prevent freezing, but it also stops your hot water pipes from losing heat, meaning your shower gets hot faster (saving energy).

The "Vacation" Rule: Thermostats and Cabinets
Going away for the holidays? This is when most disasters happen. Follow these two rules:
The 55°F Rule: Never set your thermostat lower than 55°F (13°C). You might save $20 on gas, but you risk a $10,000 flood.
Open the Cabinets: Open the vanity doors under your kitchen and bathroom sinks. This allows the warm air from your house to circulate around the pipes.
If a pipe does burst while you're away, ensure your Moisture Meter is handy to check the extent of the damage when you return.
What to Do If a Pipe Actually Freezes
If you turn on the faucet and only a trickle comes out during a cold snap: Don't Force It.
Keep the Faucet Open: As the ice melts, water needs a place to flow.
Apply Heat: Use a hair dryer, a space heater, or hot towels wrapped around the pipe. Start from the faucet and work your way back toward the frozen section.
DO NOT use a blowtorch: You will boil the water inside, causing the pipe to explode (or start a fire).
Final Verdict: Build Your Defense
Winterizing isn't about spending a fortune; it's about spending $40 strategically.
Exterior: Put Frost King Covers on every outdoor spigot.
Garage/Crawlspace: Wrap exposed pipes with EasyHeat Cables.
Interior: Insulate basement pipes with foam.
A frozen pipe is a disaster that gives you zero warning. Take an hour this weekend to install these defenses, and sleep soundly through the next blizzard.
FAQs
Q: Do faucet covers really work?
A: Yes. By trapping a pocket of "dead air" and insulating the metal faucet from the wind chill, they prevent the water inside the valve from freezing. They are effective down to very low temperatures if installed correctly against the siding.
Q: Can I leave a hose attached in winter?
A: No! This is the #1 cause of burst pipes. A hose traps water inside the spigot. Even a frost-free sillcock will burst if a hose is attached. Disconnect all hoses in November.
Q: Does heat tape use a lot of electricity? A: No. Modern heat tape (like EasyHeat) is thermostatically controlled. It sits idle (using zero power) for 99% of the winter and only sips power when the pipe temperature approaches freezing.



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